The Sommelier Edition is a wine that should draw the attention of producers | Criticism

We already know that wine is also subject to the laws of fashion. Incidentally, never before has it been a fashion product, and it is easy to imagine some meetings of the board of directors of large companies as exercises in brainstorming about new concepts to launch in the market. In a market economy and with more supply than demand, there is no going back – it is necessary to constantly innovate.

Of course, as we are dealing with a food product that creates strong loyalty and that depends on plants that cannot be replaced like someone replacing carrots with turnips, fashions do not occur from one year to the next and are not even transversal to most consumers. They are happening. Slowly.

However, it can be said that after school Robert Parkerwhich made everyone sick of excesses (excessive extraction, excesses of alcohol, excesses of barrels and sweetness in droves), we are now focused on wines that are fresher, more acidic, more elegant, less alcoholic and more gastronomic – as they used to be, but now well worked through knowledge in viticulture and enology.

Does this mean that such parkeirized wines are going to disappear quickly? No. Incidentally, there are many producers who claim that they are not going to give up this wine profile because they like parkeir wines, because their consumers have not yet understood the new trends (necessarily niche) or because in their (hot) regions it is not easy to make wines elegant and with less alcohol (at least in theory).

All of this is more than legitimate, but it would be good if these producers thought a little more seriously about the world to come. And for that, this Count Vimioso Sommelier Edition Tinto 2020 is a good example. Why? Because it reflects the trends very well, in this case proposed by a group of very important professionals in the wine businessin particular for wines premium.

Over the past five years, and since Antonina Barbosa took on responsibilities as director of oenology, Falua has invited some of the most important national sommeliers to create a batch at your will. And, for what matters now, these sommeliers (nine) have created wines with that anti-Parker profile, marked by lightness and finesse.

The most skeptical producers will say that it will not be the taste of sommeliers that will pay them the bills at the end of the month or that they only deal with an elite of wine consumers and such. Right. But maybe it wouldn’t be a bad idea to taste the wines that give pleasure to the guys who recommend wines. When defining the profiles of Falua wines, Antonina Barbosa knows what the market desires. The difference, compared to other producers, is that it is already working according to new trends. And, perhaps, that should make a school.

Name Conde Vimioso Sommelier Edition Red 2020

Producer Falua, Sociedade de Vinhos, SA

Castes Aragonez, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Syrah

Region Tejo

alcohol grade 13.5 percent

Price (euros) Between 8 and 9 euros

Punctuation 94

Author Edgardo Pacheco

Test results Red fruits (currant), vegetable and mineral notes. Fresh and delicate mouth, always fine, but with a vegetable character that gives life to the wine. Good acidity and very moderate alcohol. Highly gastronomic.

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