What helped the blogger to climb Mount Manaslu in his arms - Rossiyskaya Gazeta

To spend more than a month away from family in the snow, the last five days to overcome 35 kilometers on hands, working with ice axes and overcoming fatigue and pain in the body – all in order to get to the top of Mount Manaslu in the Himalayas. Ufa resident Rustam Nabiev did what not everyone can handle, and became the first person on the planet to conquer one of the highest peaks in the world on his hands. The “RG” correspondent found out from Rustam what made him set off on a dangerous path and what he feared most of all.

Climbing in the name of mom

RG has repeatedly written about Rustam Nabiyev, a conscript soldier who survived the collapse of the barracks in Omsk and lost both legs. Thanks to his perseverance and willpower, the young man proved that disability is not a sentence, you can become happy and successful, even with physical flaws. Rustam did not become a victim of fate, but took it into his own hands: he created a family where two charming girls are growing today, and began to make his dreams come true. He started with parachute jumps (in the army, where he served in the airborne troops, he did not have time to do this), participated in a mass race. And last year he got carried away with mountaineering and conquered the western summit of Elbrus. On hands. Then, returning home, Rustam told the “RG” correspondent that he did it not for the hype, but for the sake of his daughters, so that they would never be ashamed of their father, who moved in a wheelchair.

This summer, the Ufa resident conquered the eastern summit of Elbrus – also on his hands with the help of ice axes. And in the fall he went to the Himalayas, devoting his new trip to his mother, who died when he was still little. The expedition was followed by more than a million subscribers to Rustam’s Instagram page, who sincerely worried about the blogger. Only he posted posts quite rarely: there are big problems with the Internet in the Himalayas. Therefore, as soon as a connection appeared, the blogger sent notes and photos in messages to his wife, and she already posted them on his page.

There were many who doubted the success of Rustam’s new project. Many professional climbers believed that he would not be able to reach the top of Manaslu, calling the expedition an “adventure”. After all, this is a rather difficult route even for athletes, not to mention amateurs. Manaslu is the eighth highest eight-thousander in the world (8,156 meters above sea level), where the mortality rate among climbers is quite high – 17.8 percent. Snow avalanches are especially dangerous here.

– I believed in myself, my strengths and capabilities, I knew that I would not give up. Yes, several times there were moments of weakness, but I kept on walking, – said Rustam.

The family was waiting for the winner at home. Photo: From the personal archive of Rustam Nabiyev

Only forward!

During the expedition, many unpleasant and dangerous moments arose: clothes soaked through, piercing cold, stormy winds and cracks up to 100 meters deep. Rustam almost fell into one of them. This happened at the longest passage to the first camp: cracks were encountered at almost every step. Moving over the next one, the Ufa man could not catch on with an ice ax and rolled back. Just a little more and … Fortunately, Lhakpa’s Sherpa guide managed to catch the blogger by the harness.

It took Nabiev’s team five days to storm the summit, another day the group descended back to the base camp. During these few days Rustam walked 35 kilometers on his hands. But all this took place at a high altitude, where each movement requires significantly greater efforts due to low pressure and lack of oxygen. Rustam climbed the mountain using ice axes. According to his calculations, he made more than 105 thousand blows in five days.

The most difficult part was the last leg of the journey. Firstly, because of the piled fatigue, and secondly, because of the large snowdrifts, through which it was difficult to wade even on your feet, let alone on your hands. In addition, Rustam’s shoulder ached so badly that he had to take painkillers.

– The mountain showed character, did not want to let me in, but I walked forward, proving that, like no one else, I was worthy to stand on this summit! – Rustam admitted.

Immediately after the conquest of Manaslu, he wrote on his page on the social network: “The ascent was given to me by titanic work. But I do not regret it, because it was only my path.”

The only thing that slightly overshadowed the return of Rustam was the statements in social networks of people who doubted that the Ufa resident climbed to the top on his own. Someone even suggested that the blogger was being carried to the goal. But this was written by those who do not know Rustam Nabiyev personally, his character and a fierce desire to do everything on his own, without someone else’s help, to prove every minute that even without legs a person is capable of much.

“Everyone has the right to think whatever they want,” Rustam says philosophically. – But you know, at such a height it is purely physically impossible to carry a person weighing more than 50 kilograms.

By the way, very soon Rustam will transfer video materials that prove the conquest of the eight-thousander to the Guinness Book of Records. And when this fact is registered, no one will have any doubts that the Ufa resident did the impossible.

In the family

Now Rustam is at home and tries to devote as much time as possible to his family – his wife Indira and his little daughters Amina and Sofia. He admitted that all the days of separation he was constantly thinking about his family, hung photographs in his tent in order to fall asleep and wake up looking at them. The thought that they were waiting for him at home warmed him on cold nights. When asked what made the loving father of two wonderful daughters leave the family for such a long time, Rustam said:

– The expedition to the eight-thousander in the Himalayas is my internal request, I had to fulfill it. You see, the mountains are tightening, calling to them again and again. Most of all, I was afraid not to return home, to my family, but I tried to drive this fear deeper, not to think about the bad. Nothing to regret. I defeated myself, this is better than any award. You know, it’s nice when a daughter says: “My dad is a superhero!” I am glad that the children are proud of me. It means that I am doing everything right, I am going the right way.

According to Rustam Nabiyev, new peaks, perhaps even climbing Mount Everest, will be required, but so far they have faded into the background.

– Now I have new goals – to build a house and give birth to a son. When this happens, it will be possible to say: I have reached the peak of my happiness, – smiles Rustam.

From the blog of Rustam Nabiyev

“Wish me luck, mom! The road calls me … From tomorrow I will be without communication, without the Internet, I will gather my thoughts, remove unnecessary things from my head and tune in only to the mountain. This is the most difficult path that I have to go through. May my ascent become an incentive for millions of people to never let go of their hands, a proof that only through action can a result be achieved. I will do this not only for myself, but also for all of us … I know that in the coming days I can anything can happen, and I know how painful the path to the top will be. I’m not afraid. I’m ready … I’ll get in touch as soon as it’s over! … and I’m sorry, if that … “

“Few believed in this, but I did it! On October 2, 2021, at 10.00 am I stood on the top of Mount Manaslu, 8 163 meters. I wrote a new page in the history of modern mountaineering, becoming the first person in the world to climb an hands alone. “

Number

Rustam Nabiev lost 12 kilograms of weight in the expedition to Manaslu.

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